The new motors come with male bullet connectors. You'll need to cut the harnesses off the stock motors, then crimp a female bullet connector onto the cut end. Connect these to the new motors. The new motors have dual plugs for r/c application, so cap the second wire with shrink wrap or another bullet connect that isn't connected to anything.
Check your new pinions vs the stock pinions to ensure they are exactly the same pitch and tooth count. (You can likely use a 14t or 15t pinion to increase top speed further, but I've yet to test that). The pinions just slide onto the shaft of the new motor and are tightened with a set screw. I like to use blue loctite threadlocker to prevent them from coming loose during driving.
Now install the new motor into the gearbox with the two screws used to hold the stock motors on. Spin the wheel adapter on the gearbox to make sure the motor turns freely and there is no grinding. If it won't turn, you might need to adjust the depth of the pinion on the shaft to make sure it lines up with the gear inside the box.
Then reassemble the rear axle, gearboxes and wheels, which is just the reverse of step 1.
DrAllison on December 4th, 2017 at 15:13 UTC »
I had major wire heat issues after I upgraded my power wheels motors and added rubber to the tires. Upgrading the wire harness from 14awg to 10awg completely relieved the issue. You might consider that if you do the battery upgrade and are having to modify the harness further. You can also add heat sinks to the motors and even a 12v fan to keep the motor compartment cooled.
mroinks on December 4th, 2017 at 14:47 UTC »
I did something quite similar with my kids Power Wheels Barbie Jeep. It went from them never driving it because it was slow and boring to them power sliding in the driveway until the batteries were drained. Much more fun now.
dudethatsrandom on December 4th, 2017 at 14:12 UTC »
Fuck yeah! This is pretty cool. I never realized the motors in those things were just simple RC motors. I thought they were much larger.