Anthony Bourdain had countless journeys uncovering overlooked places around the world, from Vietnam to Borneo and Palestine. But one of his most memorable efforts was his work with a restaurant reviewer in Grand Forks, North Dakota.
After Grand Forks Herald dining critic Marilyn Hagerty went viral in 2012 for a review she wrote about Olive Garden (she called it “impressive” and commended the “generous” portion of chicken Alfredo she received), Bourdain quickly stepped out of the hordes of people who gave her a lot of snark for taking a chain restaurant so seriously. Instead, he met with Hagerty and published a book of her columns to which he wrote the foreword.
Bourdain, who died Friday at the age of 61, left a lasting impression on Hagerty, who met him once in New York City after her viral article. Hagerty, 92, told TIME she didn’t know Bourdain at all before her story drew widespread attention online, but that he supported her at an important time.
“People were saying what a funny strange thing it was for anyone to write about the Olive Garden, and all of a sudden Anthony Bourdain came to my side,” she said. “He said he agreed with the people at first, and as he thought about it more, he seemed to appreciate the fact that for people in middle America, it’s part of how we eat.”
Bourdain’s appreciation extended through much more of Hagerty’s work. Grand Forks, North Dakota, doesn’t see many of the food trends or small restaurants that specialize in particular dishes that pop up in places like New York or San Francisco. But for Hagerty, writing about food just means going everywhere, including fast food chains like McDonald’s and Taco Bell, and buffets frequented by truck drivers.
It was Hagerty’s ability to notice such things that prompted Bourdain to suggest she write a book of her columns when they met for coffee at a hotel in New York in 2012.
“I expected to meet some kind of character,” she said. “I found him to be not a wild, reckless character of a person, as I had expected. I found him to be a very pleasant businessman and journalist.”
The meeting resulted in a book: Grand Forks: A History of American Dining in 128 Reviews, which Bourdain published under his imprint with Ecco in 2013. In the foreword to the book he noted that Hagerty’s work is much different than what is written about restaurants in New York or London or Paris. According to Eater, he wrote:
Ms. Hagerty is not naïve about her work, her newfound fame, or the world. She has travelled widely in her life. In person, she has a flinty, dry, very sharp sense of humor. She misses nothing. I would not want to play poker with her for money. This is a straightforward account of what people have been eating—still ARE eating—in much of America. As related by a kind, good-hearted reporter looking to pass along as much useful information as she can—while hurting no one. Anyone who comes away from this work anything less than charmed by Ms. Hagerty—and the places and characters she describes—has a heart of stone. This book kills snark dead.
The onslaught of attention on Hagerty has calmed down in the last five years. But Bourdain’s impact on her will never go away.
“All these years, people who didn’t know me were just so impressed that Anthony Bourdain published my book,” she said. “Why would he notice me, in Grand Forks, North Dakota? But he did.”
She added: “To me, he was nothing but kind and a gentleman.”
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Write to Mahita Gajanan at [email protected].
SheWolf04 on October 10th, 2020 at 22:54 UTC »
I have read this book, cover to cover, and I frikkin loved it. Her reviews were well-written, had constructive (and not mean-spirited) criticism, and covered every inch of her town (sometimes twice if new menus or new owners were seen). Also, she really wants enough salt in her soup.
radenthefridge on October 10th, 2020 at 21:55 UTC »
Went to school in Grand Forks and she's a well-respected writer and reviewer. I didn't realize how big of a deal this would be until I saw the wildly overcrowded parking lots and lines out the door for at least a week straight!
Make all the jokes you want about Grand Forks, North Dakota (they're all probably true anyways) but it was a big deal for the area and it'd be foolish for people not to review it!
KungFugazi on October 10th, 2020 at 21:25 UTC »
Here is the review for those who are curious and cant get past the paywall:
After a lengthy wait for Olive Garden to open in Grand Forks, the lines were long in February.
The novelty is slowly wearing off, but the steady following attests the warm welcome.
My first visit to Olive Garden was during midafternoon, so I could be sure to get in.
After a late breakfast, I figured a late lunch would be fashionable. The place is impressive. It’s fashioned in Tuscan farmhouse style with a welcoming entryway. There is seating for those who are waiting.
My booth was near the kitchen, and I watched the waiters in white shirts, ties, black trousers and aprons adorned with gold-colored towels. They were busy at midday, punching in orders and carrying out bread and pasta.
It had been a few years since I ate at the older Olive Garden in Fargo, so I studied the two manageable menus offering appetizers, soups and salads, grilled sandwiches, pizza, classic dishes, chicken and seafood and filled pastas. At length, I asked my server what she would recommend. She suggested chicken Alfredo, and I went with that. Instead of the raspberry lemonade she suggested, I drank water.
She first brought me the familiar Olive Garden salad bowl with crisp greens, peppers, onion rings and yes - several black olives. Along with it came a plate with two long, warm breadsticks.
The chicken Alfredo ($10.95) was warm and comforting on a cold day. The portion was generous. My server was ready with Parmesan cheese.
As I ate, I noticed the vases and planters with permanent flower displays on the ledges. There are several dining areas with arched doorways. And there is a fireplace that adds warmth to the decor.
Olive Garden has an attractive bar area to the right of the entryway. The restaurant has a full liquor license and a wine list offering a wide selection to complement Italian meals. Nonalcoholic beverages include coolers, specialty coffees and hot teas.
On a hot summer day, I will try the raspberry lemonade that was recommended.
There’s a homemade soup, salad and breadstick lunch available until 4 p.m. daily for $6.95. An olive branch on menu items signified low-fat entrees.
There is a Garden Fare Nutrition Guide available for customers seeking gluten-free food. And for those with food allergies, Olive Garden has an Allergen Information Guide.
All in all, it is the largest and most beautiful restaurant now operating in Grand Forks. It attracts visitors from out of town as well as people who live here. Olive Garden is part of the Darden chain of restaurants that also operates Red Lobster.
There are about 700 restaurants, including four Olive Gardens in North Dakota’s major cities. Olive Garden has gained a following since 1982 with its ample portions and relaxed ambience. It’s known for its classic lasagna, fettuccine Alfredo and chicken Parmigiana.